DO Rueda is a unique place, located in the north-central autonomía of Castilla y León. For an area known more for their reds and rosados, i.e. Ribera del Duero, Toro, and Cigales, refreshingly, Rueda is a vinous island paradise for white wine lovers. Outside of Rias Baixas’ Albariño, Rueda’s native Verdejo is the second most well known white varietal coming out of Spain today. Rueda achieved DO status 30 years ago in 1980, they were the first DO in the Castilla y León region, Ribera del Duero followed two years later in 1982.

Rueda was once called “Tierra de Nadie” (meaning “Nobody’s Land”), because it was the battleground between Christians and Muslim Moors. In the tenth century as the Moors were driven southward they burned and destroyed everything in their path. This essentially left the area known as Rueda a virtual wasteland and was mostly uninhabited for about a hundred years. During the mid-eleventh century, King Alfonso VI took to the throne of Old Castile and to encourage repopulation of the area he granted land to settlers if they worked the land. The kings plan worked so well, soon farmers and monks returned to the land and Verdejo was right there waiting to be picked. Though the Verdejo grape has been grown in Rueda for centuries it was most likely the so-called Muslim Mozárabes, who brought the Verdejo variety from North Africa.

In those times Sherry was regarded as the worlds finest wine, the only problem was Jerez still belonged to the Moorish empire, it was at this moment that the newly revitalized Rueda was tasked in making a sherry style wine to rival those of Jerez. For ensuing centuries Rueda’s wine production flourished and were especially loved by the various Spanish royal courts. Like all good things Rueda’s wine bubble finally popped during the end of the nineteenth century as the phylloxera root louse soon made its way throughout Europe and devastated region after region.

In the 1930s desperate to get back on their feet, Rueda farmers replanted mostly with Palomino as it was easier to grow and produced larger crops. It was also the main grape for making Sherry and the wines were still very popular in those days. The style evolved to become Rueda Dorado and was very much like an amontillado Sherry.

During this period Spain was going through a civil war, World War II soon followed disrupting export markets, then General Francisco Franco took over as dictator until his death in 1975. Things were bleak during these times and Rueda wines became relegated to just the local markets but big changes were soon on the way.

It wasn’t until the 1970s when famed Rioja producer Marqués de Riscal moved into the area and “rediscovered” Verdejo. With the help of stainless steel tanks, temperature control, and other new technology and techniques, Rueda burst back on the scene and hasn’t looked back!

This week we just received our super fresh 2009 Blanco Nieva Verdejo from producer Viñedos de Nieva. Bodegas Viñedos de Nieva is located in the south-eastern-most portion of Rueda in the small town of Nieva. Established in 1989, the bodega helped to restore what was once a thriving industry during previous centuries in Nieva. For hundreds of years, the town’s vineyards and winemaking were controlled by the Jeronimo Monks and later, after their departure from the area, by the town’s people. By 1989 the vineyards were in disarray and it took Jose Maria Herrero and his family a great deal of effort to salvage some of the older vineyards.

The strength of Bodegas Viñedos de Nieva lies in their vineyards located 2,789 feet above sea level. They have some of the highest elevation vineyards in the region and days are hot but nights are markably cooler producing well balanced fruit with great acidity and structure. The Herrero Family currently owns 135 acres planted with Verdejo vines and 12 acres of Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the Verdejo vines are approximately 150 years old which has to do with a predominance of sandy soil. Phylloxera don’t do well in sandy soils so luckily these extremely old vines were spared. All of the grapes used to make the Blanco Nieva wines are estate grown. In fact, the bodega uses only their top 35% in terms of quality of their grape production to make their own wines. They sell the remaining 65% to other local bodegas. As is the norm in this region the vines are picked very early in the morning before the sun even comes up to help preserve the freshness and quality of the grapes.

Rueda produces consistently high quality wines year in and year out. From 2002 thru 2009 the DO has rated the vintages as “Very Good”. As far as taste goes Verdejo has a very unique flavor, with a hint of country herbs, a fruity touch and an excellent level of acidity. On the lighter to medium body side Verdejo also has a characteristic slightly bitter touch on the finish, accompanied by a bright fruity expression. These wines are food friendly, and go well with many different types of cuisine. Look out for our 2009 Blanco Nieva Verdejo in a wine bar/shop or restaurant here in California soon, it should retail about $16 – $18 a bottle.

by Tommy Ronquillo