We tried many different wines in Portugal, from the elegant oxidized barrel-aged whites in Bairrada to the Alentejo’s big welcoming reds. While we tasted dozens of new wines we wanted to bring into the state, when our trip was over there was one particular wine that left us with a distinct impression: California needs sparkling Baga.

You already know about Baga, Bairrada’s signature grape, and the many forms it takes under the direction of Mr. Baga himself, Luis Pato. There’s the simple pleasure of his basic “Casta Baga Tinto,” the robust refinement of his “Vinhas Velhas 2005” and the nearly immortal “Quinta do Ribeirinho 2003” and “Vinhas Velhas 1990” which will continue to improve for thirty years or more. What we weren’t aware of, however, was that the key to these wines success lies in the simple, delicious “Baga Espumante.”

Although officially a sparkling red wine, not a rosado, the Espumante is a pale coral red, darker than most Champagne Rose but lighter than Lambrusco and practically albino when compared against inky Sparkling Shiraz. The pale color is because the sparkling Baga is made from fruit from Luis Pato’s Quinta do Ribeirinho and Vinhas Velhas vineyards that is harvested early, about six weeks before the harvest for the still wine. The somewhat under-ripe grapes have higher acidity and lower sugar and tannin content, ideal for making brisk, refreshing sparkling wine. This early picking also serves as an effective “green harvest” for the remaining grapes, allowing for the berries to develop the concentration required for the Adega’s flagship wines.

The Baga Espumante 2008–Vinho Espumante cannot legally be vintage dated but Luis Pato gets around this by printing the “L”ot number on the back label which is 2008 –is vinified cold using a vacuum press and minimal pressure, ensuring a juice yield of no more than 60%. It is fermented in stainless steel before undergoing secondary fermentation in the bottle, where the wine remains on the lees for 6-9 months before disgorgement, contributing a yeasty richness to the palate.

We’ve secured a limited quantity of the Baga Espumante just in time for the holiday season. More full-bodied than most Cava or Champagne but with excellent acidity, it is the natural accompaniment for roast poultry, pork (leitao!) and fall vegetables.

by David Duman