A 90 minute drive down windy roads due east from Porto is the Douro River Valley. Since the 18th Century, the valley’s steep terraced vineyards have been growing the grapes for the Port houses at the river’s mouth in Vila Nova de Gaia, most of which were British-owned. It was a relationship that began with the Methuen Treaty of 1703, which secured a duty-free trade zone between Great Britain and Portugal in exchange for British naval protection. The fortified port wines were more resistant to spoilage on the long ship ride to England and then beyond to her colonies and became a favored drink throughout the Empire. Acknowledging the value of its Port wine, a royal charter defined the Douro growing region in 1756, making it the oldest demarcated wine-growing region in the world.

Although dry wines had been produced in the valley since the Romans first brought vines there in the 3rd Century, the port houses held a virtual monopoly on exports out of the Douro and had little interest in pursuing serious table wine production. But with strict regulations preventing the creation of new Port houses and with Port’s popularity waning after World War Two, a few upstart wine makers began experimenting with serious dry red wine production–led by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida at Barca Velha.

But it wasn’t until Portugal’s accession to the European Union in 1986 and the accompanying elimination of the Port houses’ export monopoly that world-class table wine production began in earnest. Now, in addition to the proliferation of independent wine makers, most of the traditional Port houses are also producing dry table wines of renown.

The Douro Valley, shielded from Atlantic influences by its surrounding mountain ranges, is quite hot in the summer and one of the driest places in Western Europe. Despite the heat, the well-drained schist and granite soils keep the vines well-nourished and virtually all of the Valley’s vines are dry-farmed. The same Quintas that grow Port grapes also grow the vines for table wine. Often, wine makers use the schist-planted vineyards for Port wine and the more granitic sites for their table wines, favoring the mineral character that the stoney soil imparts to the wine.

Our wines from the Douro include those produced by Sogevinus and Quinta Das Tecedeiras. Sogevinus produces both the Barros Ports and the Veedha table wine, both of which come from some of the highest rated Quintas in the Valley. The average age of all of Sogevinus’ vines is over 80 years and they produce wines of unique character, rich in balanced tannins, brambly fruit and excellent acidity. The 2008 Veedha recently received a 90 Point Best Buy rating in Wine Spectator. Quinta Das Tecedeiras Reserva 2007 is an example of the richness and power the Douro can express. The vineyards are located on the site of a former monastery and all the vines are over 80 years old. Both wines are blends of indigenous Portuguese grapes, indicative of Portugal’s continued support for its native vines.

We’re currently seeking another estate producer of unique, food-friendly wines from the Douro Valley and we’re open to all suggestions for, and solicitations from, producers both new and old.

by David Duman